Saturday 25 May 2019

Mount Washington Cog Railway

Mount Washington Cog Railway


A few years ago, we had the honour and privilege of spending 6 weeks at a house/pet sit in Vermont. Since then, we have become good friends with our hosts, Eileen and Dick, and consider them our American (or Vermontian) family!


Dick and Eileen (when the visited us in Elliot Lake, in 2018)
Pot Luck Farm - where we had the honour and privilege to complete a 6-week house/pet sit, back in 2016




When we were here, we took the dogs out for day trips on an almost daily basis. One of these road trips took us into New Hampshire among the White Mountains - specifically Mount Washington. During that time, we were able to visit the base camp of the mountain, but access to the peak was closed during the winter. The signs indicated that there was a cog railway to the top and, although we could see the tracks, we knew that we would have to return when it was opened to experience that treat. On the bucket list it went, and this was finally crossed off this week, when Dick and Eileen took us there. Our excitement knew no bounds!








Mount Washington is the highest peak in the Northeastern United States, standing at 6,288 feet. It is notorious for its erratic weather system and wind speeds of up to 231 mph have been recorded at the summit! 




It boasts the world's first cog railway, using steam-driven locomotives most of the time, though our engine was powered by diesel. It uses a Marsh Rack System to navigate the mountain. We were amazed to find out that the passenger coach is not attached to the locomotive, but rests upon it, supported by gravity alone. Hence, the locomotive is always located below the passenger coach.

When we arrived at the base, the summit could not be seen as the fog surrounding it was quite thick. We had to be there an hour before our trip, so we were able to explore part of the museum.


The summit was completed hidden by the clouds and fog





At last, our trip was announced and we made our way to join the other 50 or so passengers on the journey up. It was fascinating to see the climb starting off gradual, and then increasing to a 25% grade, sometimes reaching just over 37%. Running at about 5 mph, the ride is a 3-hour, narrated round trip, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, including one hour for exploration at the summit.
In the coach, waiting for the ride to begin

I was delighted to be able to stand at the front of the coach to see the rack and track ahead of us 
Further up the mountain, the track became steeper




As we rode up above the tree line, we noticed more snow and ice dotted here and there, and eventually the whole area was coated in white. The temperature at the top was 11 degrees Fahrenheit (with the wind chill), and the wind was quite strong. In fact, the day before, the wind was so strong that it wasn't safe to allow the train to go all the way to the top. We were very lucky during our visit!

After we reached the summit, we disembarked and watched the train eerily disappear into the fog. 




While we were at the top, we were noticing the speed at which the clouds were moving, and the fog kept coming and going, eventually clearing to afford us some spectacular views. 








The top of the cog railway - and the beginning of the platform upon which passengers would alight

Alan and Eileen

Eileen and Dick

The Four of Us

It was a chilly -12 degrees Celsius, and the frozen fog left a crisp carpet upon which to walk

Steps leading down to the parking lot

The platform alongside track at the summit

For once... not a selfie!

Another view of the platform at the top

The cog train comes back for the return journey






The Sherman Adams Visitor Centre, houses a museum, post office, and small snack bar. It wasn't open to the public (until this coming weekend), but they did provide us with a warm drink and a donut, to keep us going!


Frozen fog coats the museum exterior

The entrance to the museum


The narrator had explained that the unusual horizontal ice formations on the rocks and signs were not snow, but frozen fog. 


The unusual ice formations were created by fog being frozen as it passed over the various cold surfaces - rather like a hoar frost



Mark bravely climbed the last few rocks to reach the actual summit of the mountain. 



There is a road that allows people to drive to the top but it, too, was not opening until this coming weekend. 

I watched for the train to return to take us back to the base camp. 




On our way down, we passed another train on its way up, which had to wait while we negotiated the point system. 




We also saw a hiker who was on his way to the summit. 




When we reached the base, we couldn't get over how lucky we had been with the weather. When we had first arrived, the summit could not be seen; by the time we had completed our descent, clouds had totally disappeared. 



At the bottom, we saw the engineers getting a steam cog engine ready for its first public trip on the upcoming long weekend (Memorial Day Weekend).

This steam locomotive was being primed for its first journey of the year


Just before leaving, we had been told to take a look at the original locomotive (the world's first mountain-climbing train) that was built by Sylvester Marsh in 1866, and last used in 1929. It was nicknamed, 'Old Peppersass', according to this interesting story: 

"The engine received its nickname when one of Marsh's friends observed, "Looks like a peppersass bottle doesn't she, Sylvester?" The resemblance came from the engine's upright boiler which was angled to keep it nearly vertical while the locomotive was on steep grades. This was essential to keep the water level in the boiler as even as possible." (Courtesy: http://www.knowa.com/article/720/the_history_of_the_locomotive_old_peppersass_1869/)

It was restored to it original state in 2019, and now tours the United States, visiting numerous cities and museums. 

This is the original cog locomotive (not a replica!)


As a final treat for the day, we enjoyed lunch at the nearby Mount Washington Hotel and Resort. It is one of the last surviving grand hotels in the White Mountains - and it certainly lives up to the title, 'Grand'!  





The main entrance speaks for itself, and the interior is just as splendid. 


The grand entrance to the Mount Washington Hotel


We loved this huge fireplace in the great entrance hall


On the lower floor, however, is a Prohibition-era 'Speakeasy', which is walled with granite and stone. It is called, 'The Cave', and was once an illegal establishment - a part of the bootlegging route from Canada to Boston!



From the rear of the building, one is able to enjoy magnificent views of the mountains and surrounding areas.


View from the verandah

One of the wings to the side of the hotel



Upon our return to Pot Luck Farm, we were delightfully tired, and we all agreed that it had been a truly, perfect day!



For further information about the Cog Railway - and its history, here's a great link: 



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Saturday 18 May 2019

A Day in Montreal, Quebec

A Day in Montreal, Quebec


During his first visit to Montréal in 1888, Mark Twain proclaimed Montréal, 'The city of a hundred bell towers', saying, "This is the first time I was ever in a city where you couldn't throw a brick without breaking a church window." In this New World, the attraction of Old Montreal (and Quebec City) is strong, partly because of the age of the various architectural structures - including churches. 

Our hosts had suggested that we could take the train into Montreal from St. Jerome, thus saving the hassle of finding parking spots downtown.

It's a 35 minute drive from the cottage to the town of St. Jerome, the end of this particular line, north from Montreal. The EXO trains are similar to the GO trains in the Toronto area... double deckers - which allow good viewing from the upper level.


40 minutes later, the train arrived at De La Concorde station, in Laval, (they don't run into Montreal at the weekends, but connect with the underground Metro for the journey to the downtown area). The Metro train just took 35 minutes to get to the Old City area, our destination for the day.

The Metro trains sport rubber-tired wheels, which make for a smoother ride.  


Our first stop was the viewing area of the restaurant called, Les Enfants Terribles. There is also an outdoor patio overlooking the city, but it was too cool to sit outside - even for a coffee!




Raindrops on the windows (from a recent shower) blurred the view a little



No visit to Montreal would be complete for us without a visit to the Basilica of Notre Dame. A church has existed on this site since 1672, and the current edifice was completed by 1843. Upon its completion, it was the largest church in North America for 50 years. It is regarded as a masterpiece of Gothic Revival architecture. 


It is, perhaps, most famous for its interior - especially the altar and sanctuary areas. 

Courtesy of: http://gomontrealtourism.com/notre-dame-basilica/

Since we had attended the laser show, last August, we did not venture inside this time around.

Outside the basilica, there were several of the traditional calèches. This one was decked out for the spring! 




We walked from the Old City to the more modern part, taking in the different types of architecture.








Feeling the need for some refreshments, we stopped in at the Jardin Nelson, a cafe/restaurant at Place Jacques-Cartier. Here, we enjoyed a cafe-au-lait in a traditional bowl.


It was quite cool outside, so we were happy to have a heater above us!



Our next stop was St. Catherine Street - the famous venue for  Canada's largest (in area) Gay Village. During the summer months, this street becomes a pedestrian walkway which attract throngs of visitors from all backgrounds and places of origin. The suspended rainbow balls make it a very colourful experience.




"Love Always Wins"

Where's Waldo?  Marky?


Tim Hortons, displaying the rainbow flag.



Just a few blocks north, there were several interesting things to see, some of them quite humorous!

Outdoor, large chess game - it would seem that anyone could challenge others to a game!

'Les Chuchteuses' - (Three Women Chatting)

Not sure which one is goofy!!

Mark joined the Chuchteuses!


Our last destination for the day was a visit to St. Joseph's Oratory. Although we had both been to Montreal (separately and together) several times, neither of us had ever been inside this church. This time, we decided to dust off this 'ambition'.

The steps to the entrance were quite challenging!


The view, however, was worth the climb!


Inside, we were quite surprised at how relatively plain it was, compared to the ornate interior of the Basilica of Notre Dame.




We were lucky enough to be inside when the organist was practising for a recital.


Venturing down to the crypt, we found more traditional ornate decor, complete with stained glass windows.



On the way back to the Metro station, we discovered a wonderful fruit and veg market, and were in awe of the colourful displays and tempting aromas. 

















We were both tired at the end of our visit, and were grateful for the comfy seats on the train back to St. Jerome!


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